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    Thursday
    Sep022010

    PS. 

    Here's a short clip from my entrance into the bay. About 30 seconds in is when the really big breaker went under the boat...totally terrifying. Sorry I'm not able to get more video up just quite yet - my Macbook has succumb to the elements so unfortunately I have no design/editing programs to work with now. Hoping to scrounge up some funds for a new one sometime soon - it's really bumming me out to not be able to share more of what I'm seeing. Okay, here you go! :

    PPS. This footage was shot on the Go Pro HD cam - thanks to the folks over there for their assistance in getting one of these on board. Amped on being able to start getting some nice footage underway. Pretty rad, right??

    Wednesday
    Sep012010

    AND SO IT GROWS

    Internet, sweet internet. Hello my dears.

    So much to tell. At the moment I'm  back in El Salvador, after a week long jaunt around Costa Rica with my bud, Leigh. After my last update, the pilot Rogelio and I indeed headed back out to the entrance but we quickly discovered that the channel had become impassable - instead of the normal rows of breaking waves with a teeny tiny little pass in which to scoot through, the surf had become one solid wall of breaking waves. Rogelio circled on his jetski, shaking his head and repeating "muy peligroso...". It was a no -go. 

    It was likely to be closed off for a couple days and since the further delay meant I wouldnt be able to make it to Bahia del Coco in time to meet with my bud Leigh, I simply  buzzed back in and hailed Santos on the VHF radio. The Santos who had the mooring balls further into the bay turned out to be the same Santos I had met 3+ years earlier when I had been making a car trip through the country with some other sailor friends for an equipment roundup. Within minutes of meeting we were already making plans to explore the jungle together. We headed out for the first time just a couple hours later and made a few stops at various palapas stilted on the river. We ate boiled shrimp and mica and the locals taught me about the various fish that inhabit the river (including an insanely dangerous catfish that I'm told you must bite the tail of if stung by in order to stop the poison from entering the wound). To say that I've fallen for the Lempa River would be the understatement of all undertstatements - there's something so magical about being here. In the heart of old Mayan territory with volcanoes jutting up in the background, local families gliding by in old dugout canoes - it's ageless, timeless, mysterious, and peaceful. It feels sort of like coming home. 

    Yesterday afternoon I got my outboard motor out and rigged up on the dink in time for a quick trip upriver before the sun set. Kids hung off the edges of docks, young girls paddled over with smiling faces, the colors melted away until we could barely see at all. I know I have to keep moving at some point but I don't think my time here is up just quite yet - there's still so much I want to see and learn about. It's not everyday you find a place that feels this special, don't want to let the magic of it pass me by...

    Okay, off to enjoy the day. Have a handful of projects to tackle here and the boat is really due for some serious cleaning. She had a pretty good bash the last few weeks and the dankness level is sort of off the charts at the moment so trying to rectify that as quickly as possible.

    Enjoy your day, friends.

    Emily

     

     

     

    Friday
    Aug202010

    LIFE BEGINS AT THE RIO LEMPA...

    Thursday
    Aug192010

    HEE KEE LEE SKO

    Thursday
    Aug192010

    POTW VOL. 10: SHIPS IN THE NIGHT

    Wednesday
    Aug182010

    DEL SOL DEL SOL DEL SOL

    Well hello there, fine feathered friends. I made it here to El Salvador yesterday mroning and have had quite the runaround over the last 24 hours. The nearest ATM is a 4+ hour round trip and the paperwork has been seemingly endeless -- a far cry from my last trek here. The politcal winds have changed and lemme tell you, it's no good.

    I was supposed to head out this morning but somehow my one hour window to depart safely with a jet ski  pilot was missed amid the choas of paperwork, late officals, and general disinterest by the dock staff here. Pretty nuts.

    The sail down was more or less uneventful  - which is to say things went well. I had wind right on the nose pretty much the whole trip so that made things challenging and slow, but overall nothing too major to complain about.

     Assuming the folks here manage to get their act together for my departure tomorrow I should be heading back out (through the insane 12 foot breaking waves - I have video I'll post soon!) and fuirther south. Next port of call: Bahia del Coco (AKA Some Kickstarter packages are soon on their way, winkwink), Costa Rica.

    Until next time, enjoy this little chronicle from the Tehuantepec.

    xoxo.

    Emily.

     

    Wednesday
    Aug112010

    ATTACK OF THE WILD

    Hey All,

    Just a quick note to say I'm getting ready to head out of Huatulco and downacross the Gulf of Tehunatepec. The area is infamous for Gale force winds sothe best strategy is to travel the coast "with one foot on the beach". Ifyoure following me on the tracker and it looks like I'm actually on land I'mproabably not (fingers crossed!), just very very very close to it. Send mewishful thoguhts for a safe and benign passage....Once safely across theGulf I'll be heading down to Barillas, El Salavador for a quick break beforemoving onto to meet my friend Leigh in Costa Rica.

    Sorry for not updating since I've been here, I've been vigilantly fightingoff a swarm of displaced bees that upon my arrival decided to claim Bobbieas their new home. It's been terrible...totally impossible to get my workdone! Anyways, off to finish tidying the boat and calmly, not nervously, orfeasrfully, heading out to the beast that is the Tehuantepec...

    See you soon, friends. xoxo.

    Saturday
    Aug072010

    LATER ESTELLE

    Tropical Storm is on her way westward and out of my life. Gonna toss off the mooring lines and get headed south again this morning. Will be glad when I'm south of the Gulf of Tehuantepec and safe from hurricane zone. Wish me luck!

    Thursday
    Aug052010

    Tropical Delight


    East Pacific Tropical Weather Outlook


    TC Activity
    000
    ABPZ20 KNHC 051741
    TWOEP 
    TROPICAL WEATHER OUTLOOK
    NWS TPC/NATIONAL HURRICANE CENTER MIAMI FL
    1100 AM PDT THU AUG 5 2010
    
    FOR THE EASTERN NORTH PACIFIC...EAST OF 140 DEGREES WEST LONGITUDE..
    
    SHOWERS AND THUNDERSTORMS ASSOCIATED WITH AN AREA OF LOW
    PRESSURE LOCATED ABOUT 185 MILES SOUTHWEST OF ACAPULCO MEXICO
    HAVE CHANGED LITTLE IN ORGANIZATION.  HOWEVER...CONDITIONS STILL
    APPEAR TO BE CONDUCIVE FOR DEVELOPMENT AND THIS SYSTEM COULD
    BECOME A TROPICAL DEPRESSION AT ANY TIME DURING THE NEXT DAY OR SO. 
    THERE IS A HIGH CHANCE...70 PERCENT...OF THIS SYSTEM BECOMING A
    TROPICAL CYCLONE DURING THE NEXT 48 HOURS AS IT MOVES GENERALLY
    WESTWARD AT ABOUT 15 MPH.  INTERESTS ALONG THE SOUTHERN COAST OF
    MEXICO SHOULD MONITOR THE PROGRESS OF THIS SYSTEM.
    
    ELSEWHERE...TROPICAL CYCLONE FORMATION IS NOT EXPECTED DURING THE
    NEXT 48 HOURS.
    
    $$
    FORECASTER ROBERTS/BEVEN

    Ducked into Acapulco last night to avoid this little surprise coming together right in my path! Crazy! Hopefully, when I check in the AM it'll say 'just kidding! - clear skies, smooth sailing!'.

    Had a pretty insane sqaull last night, lasted over an hour. The rain was completely sideways, the wind sounded like a freight train a-comin'. Somehow the insane rain wind combo managed to bust open my lip whilst i was scrambling around on deck in the pitch black getting reefed and stowed. i was literally spitting mouthfuls of rain/blood mix....so refreshing!

    Anyways, pulled into this beautiful little bay overnight, literally looked looked like the mountains were growing diamonds...all you have to do is reach out and pick them. Quite a beautiful sight at nighttiome (daytime is quite different...)

     

    Alright, hasta luego, amigos. Gone explorin'...

    Tuesday
    Aug032010

    ON THE ROAD AGAIN

    Hi All,

     

    Taking off again here in a few. having problems with my radio/modem at the moment so don't be worried if you dont hear from me for a few days. You can always check my progress on the SPOT tracker if youre curious as to my whereabouts. Hopefully I'll gte the cable switched out while underway and be back in business in no time but in theevent I have my hands tied just thought Id let you know :)

    About 350 miles to the mouth of the Gulf of Tehuantepec at Huatulco. I'll be pulling into Marina Chahue while I wait for the clearance to cross the gulf. See you guys in a few days!

    Monday
    Aug022010

    POLAROID OF THE WEEK, VOL. 9: SLEEPING BEAUTY

    Sunday
    Aug012010

    ZIHUATENAJO

    Made it into the bay here in Zihuatenjao last night...always a bit tricky trying to navigate solo in the pitch black. Dont think I could have  done it at night it I hadnt been here before...

    Woke up to a couple other boats anchored  beside me this morning. Nowhere nearly as packed as it is in the high season bu the local pangas fisherman are still out in full force. Off to check out the rest of the town, Ill update more in a bit when Im not so exhausted...

    This is the view from Bobbie right now -

     

    BYYYEE

     

    -------------------------------------------

    PS. I added some new widgets to the righ hand side of thepage. The FORMSPRING lets you ask me some rand-o questions and then the second one is set up so i  can receve direct messages on the boat over my SSB radio...cool! Give em a whirl!

    PPS. Paty, you were  right -  my vistors in Barra were tejones. What a good lookng pair of dirty little thieves..

     

    Thursday
    Jul292010

    LIGHTS IN THE SKY

    Hello Hello Hello!

    Finally drying out a bit from last nights back to back storms. Got pretty good and drenched, all night I was switching back and forth from one rainsuit to the other...it was madness. Quite a bit of lightening, fortunately none too close this time though. Things have settled down a bit this afternoon, hopefully that'll hold as I sure could use some zzz's...

    Speaking of which, I may pop into Zihuatenajo (Z-WHAT) Saturday morning for a shower and sleep if i don't find the time between here and there...

    Oh,also, so weird... when I was checking out of the marina office yesterday morning in walks this dude, Jose, I used to be friends with on my last trip. He used to work on a motoryacht called STEADFAST that was jumping down the coast the same time as me a few years ago. Apparently he lives in Barra de Navidad now...so sad i ran into him literally moments before I was to untie. Ah well, it was nice to have someone to see me off and he even rode along to the fuel dock to get me all filled up. Good dude.

    Alright, the computer is melting my skin now so it's time to say farewell.

    Laaate.

    Emily

    Wednesday
    Jul282010

    SOUTHBOUND

    Yo!

    Headin' out this morning here in a bit. Should be a 5 or 6 day sail to Huatulco if I don't decide to stop anywhere. The SPOT page should be back up and running so feel free to keep tabs on my progress over there.

    Have a good week y'all, think of me floatin' around out there. Ciao!

    PS. Have you seen this dolphin video yet???

    OR, how bout this handful of new photos from my stay here in Barra? Go!

    Monday
    Jul262010

    WILD

    Good Morning, All!

    Getting ready to hop on a bus over to Melaque for another tiny batch of errands. Found out yesterday that the marina would let me stay a couple extra days over my monthly cutoff without the insane day rate of ($100+!) taking effect. That's really nice as I still had a bit of work to wrap up and it's nice to be able to complete it somewhat leisurely without the rush of departure. Never totally sure when you'll see you next dock so it's nice to get everything all clean, aired out, dry and tidy as possible before heading out.

    Finally got to chat yesterday with the one other boat here. The dude Ken, also a solo sailor, is getting ready to shove off northward as I head south so we made a plan to go do a bit of afternoon spearfishing today to stock up for our passages. I've never gone spearin' before so should be quite the experience. A bit worried because everytime I've had to do the actual killing of fish before I get all teary-eyed. I really need to toughen up. Maybe having a giant bow and arrow contraption at my disposal will get me over the hump...

    Anyways, only other new discovery is somehwat of an embarassing confession. For the week or so when I first got to Barra I thought I was getting rats on board as every morning my garbage had been rifled through and various bits of my veggie supply had been ravaged. I tried several different configurations of opening/shutting portholes without much change in results...little bugger still was gettin' my food. I didnt really wanna mention it to anyone because I felt so creepd out by it to begin with.... but then yesterday when throwing out my garbage at the top of the dock two sizeable beasts came bounding out of the barrels right as my bags were going in. It was getting dark and they moved so fast I didnt really get a good look but let's suffice to say methinks my problem is not a rat but rather something much larger...

    The jungle does back right up to the marina so I think somethin' truly wild is visiting me while I snooze. I'm on the case, let you know what I find out. Alright, hasta luego!

     

    Saturday
    Jul242010

    DRY

    Hey All,

    Made it back down to the boat okay, everythings in pretty good shape here. It's been raining pretty much nonstop for the last couple days so thats been keeping me indoors a bit more than I'd like. Just got back from a quick jaunt to the next town over, Melaque. I hadn't been much of a fan of Barra de Navidad in general (super touristy but without the upside of access to good stores, provisions, etc) but Melaque really has it goin' on. Just an all around better vibe and finally some solid veggies...now I can stop eating CheezeIts and get some proper grub going. Yay!

    Still hoping to pull out tomorrow. Probably won't be ready by the AM high-tide so will likely wait til the afternoon water comes before making my way out of the lagoon. Not really sure where I'll stop next. I'm generally in route to Huatulco, MX at the top of the Gulf of Tehuantepec but I may pull in at Acapulco just to give that place a whirl. I've never realllly heard of anyone goin' wild for Acapulco as of late, but I skipped out on it my last southward journey so who knows, if I'm feeling wild maybe I'll take my chances there. Just see how things go, I suppose. Taking it nice and easy here...

    Really excited to get to Costa Rica where one of my best buds, Leigh, will be meeting me August 21. We're gonna have a real good time together....can't wait!

    Alright off to take advantage of the lull in rain...adios!

    PS. And just for reference, heres a photo (which i didnt take bc for some reason when i upload they just make those icons and not actual photos...). Barra de Navidad is that lagoon towards the top of the photo, Melaque (aka The Real Deal) is towards the bottom of the photo. Now yall now.

    Wednesday
    Jul212010

    EVerythings hangin' heavy

    The sun's just setting here in Puerto Vallarta where I'm awaiting my early morning bus to take me the rest of the way south back to the boat. It's hotter and muggier than I remember but I suppose thats to be expected as summer's officially in high gear. Kind of weird being back here, a place where I've made so many memories with so many people yet those people are all gone now. Felt kind of like a dream floating through the streets this afternoon. I'm staying in an old hotel tonight, also reminding of an abandoned country club we found last Fall on a long wknd in Ensenada. Clearly past its prime, just the shell of its former self. But I really like it. Too much glitz and glamour around these parts to begin with...

    Really excited/really nervous about getting back to Bobbie. Thrilled to be getting moving and getting on with it, anxious to see if she faired well while I was gone. Hoping to be untying Sunday barring any major problems. I'll sure be glad to be settled back into some sort of normalcy after a month of bouncing around the States.

    Anyways, off for a quick swim and then to the task of putting my bags together after they were thoroughly rifled though today (lost my dried kidney beans and a can of vegetarian BBQ beans in the process...RIP my delicious buddies, I hardly knew ye).

    Alright laters, dudes.

    PS. Enjoy some beautiful photos fresh from my new netbook ($199 at Target, yall!). xoxo.

     

    Sunday
    Jul182010

    Time's gonna come...

    Friday
    Jul162010

    RE-EMERGENCE

    Hello World, 

    Emily here, back in action. I know I'm always apologizing on here for the same ol' thing, but I do really feel terrible when I'm not as communative as I'd like to be. And I like to be very communative.

    Anyways, onto the news that is the news. I'm sitting here in Los Angeles at this very moment with my restless fingers nonstop refreshing my FedEx tracking page. Why you ask? BECAUSE TODAY IS THE DAY MY AUTOPILOT COMES HOME. Barring any major shipping mishaps (the world can be a crazy place) it'll be here by day's end, and then together we'll be hopping a plane back down south at the beginning of next week. Rad?! RAD.

    Alot has happened in the last handful of weeks, boat-wise and personal wise. That's life I guess. Anyway, I was happy to get to visit some friends, hug my folks, and re-stock on some basics like shoes sans holes, a few cases of VISO energy drinks, a grip of new books, etc, etc. Things are different than planned but things are moving forward. And that's all you can really ask, you know?

    If you try to visit the website in the next few days it may be down (or have a temp splash onsie)  as I've been busily re-organizing some backend stuff to ready it for some expanded projects I'm working on related to the voyage. Because you see this is the grand upside of having to wait out the season before westward movement - I'm getting to really work a handful of the companion projects I'd dreamt up at the voyage's inception but wasn't able to really do justice to as things got down to the wire. So anyways, all that's to say, things are very good, better than ever, so excited for all that comes next. Know that things are movin' and shakin' and I'm so happy to have had such tremendous support along the way.

    So yeah, wrapping up some loose ends here in LA the next few days and then I'll likely be under way the 25th or 26th in route to Costa Rica, which is far enough south to be out of the danger of tropical systems. From there I'll explore, and slowly meander south eventually to Salinas, Ecuador, where as soon as the season opens up at the beginning of the year I'll be pointing the bow west  for a very long time...

    Hope everyone's well!

    Love from sweaty So-Cal (summer's here, eh?),

    Emily

    PS. This article came out today in the Israeli business newpaper The Calcalist. Google translate it if you're bored out of your mind - I like to think about myself actually speaking with that grammatical structure, pretty wild ...

     

    PPS. Here's a little chronicle from the westward trek...I miss it so...

    Friday
    Jun252010

    WATCH THIS PLEASE

    Here's a neat documentary I found on VBS.tv about the Pacific Trash Vortex....no more plastic bottles, y'all.